Art of making shoes



P 8, 1930- E. I. LA CHAPELLE 1,753,792

ART OF MAKING SHOES Filed April 17, 1929 2 Sheets-Sheet l April 1930. E.I LA CHAPELLE 1,753,792

ART OF MAKING SHOES Filed April l7, 1929 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Patented Apr.8, 1930 EUCLID I. LA CHAPELLE, OF

BROCKTON, MASSACHUSETTS ART OF MAKING SHOES Application filed. April 17,

The term shoe occurring in the specification and in the claim is to beinterpreted to include the term boot; and is to be interpreted toinclude within its broadest meaning a shoe upper attached to an insole.

This invention relates to shoes having insoles and more particularly tosuch shoes as of the well known Goodyear welt type.

In the manufacture of shoes of the Goodyear welt type the marginalforepart portion of the insole curls upwardly within the shoe under theinfluence of the strain incident to stitch setting in the formation ofthe inseam by the welt shoe sewing machine. This objectionable featureis due to the fact that under the effect of such strain the plane faceof the insole, within the inseam line, is moved to some extent from thebottom of the last; and is due to the fact also that the between 29substance or sewing rib of the insole is forced outwardly against themarginal portion of the insole. Even at the lasting operation themarginal forepart portion of the insole is forced upwardly and notablyso at the little toe lateral side of the last as the marginal forepartportion of the insole usually extends beyond the edge of the last atthat side. Moreover, lasts intended for shoes of the Goodyear welt typehave somewhat 30 rounded bottoms so as to have the marginal portion ofthe insole on a lower plane than that of the between substance or sewingrib of the insole and out of the way of the curved needle of the weltshoe sewing machine. This condition adds also to the curling up of themarginal portion of the insole. During the time of wear the plane faceof the insole, within the inseam line, is depressed under the weight ofthe wearer and the inner bottom of the shoe is far from beingcomfortable as the curled up edge of the insole is thereby forcedagainst the foot.

The objective of my present invention is to render shoes of the Goodyearwelt type more comfortable and more flexible byproviding an insole,incorporating the same in a shoe and in due time cutting off part of themarginal forepart portion of the insole in the shoe.

As shown in the drawings:

1929. Serial No. 355,785.

Fig. 1, is a bottom plan View of an ordinary insoleadapted to a shoe ofthe well known Goodyear welt type.

Fig. 2, is a top plan View of the insole shown in Fig. 1.

Fig. 3, is a shoe in which is incorporated the ordinary insole shown inFigs. 1 and 2, with a cutting implement shown after the start of itscutting operation upon the marginal forepart portion of the insole.

Fig. 4, is the shoe shown in Fig. 3, with the cutting operationcompleted at both lateral sides of the forepart of the insole.

Fig. 5, is a section taken on line 55 Fig. 4.

Fig. 6, is a perspective view of the cutting implemen As further shownin the drawings:

1, represents an ordinary welt shoe insole; and as shown in Fig. 4, theinsole is beveled at 2, along the marginal forepart portion thereof inaccordance with the practice of the novel improvement in the art ofmaking shoes herein disclosed whereby the inner bottom of the shoe ismade more comfortable and more flexible and more on a level plane fromedge to edge than in the case of ordinary shoemaking. As shown, thebeveling of the insole takes place after the incorporation of the insolein the shoe by means of the cutting implement 3, the handle of which iscurved to permit of insertion into the forepart of the shoe. The saidcutting implement consists of the shank portion 4, which supports twocutting blades 5, and also a guide 6, which is adapted to engage theedge face of the insole in the shoe whereby the cutting means may beheld at uniform distance from the edge face of the insole during itscutting action and which also serves as a lining guard whereby thelining of the upper or the upper proper is held from contact with thecutting means. The under faces '7 and 8 of the shank portion of the saidcutting implement are angularly disposed rela- 9 tively to each otherwhereby one of the cutting means may be used at one side of the shoewhile the remainder of the said cutting means is held above the planeface of the insole and out of contact therewith.

The extreme toe-end of the insole is not beveled and need not be as thefoot does not contact With the insole at that point.

The degree of bevel should, preferably, extend from the inseam line toand including part of the edge face of the insole. It is to beappreciatedthat for best resultsthe insole should be of substantialthickness.

Having thus explained the nature of my invention and disclosed the bestform of practice now to me known, What I claim as new and desired tosecure by Letters Patent of the United States is:

That improvement in .the art of making shoes of the Goodyear Welt typewhich consists in reducing the thickness oflthe marginal forepartportion ofaninsole in a shoe of that type by cutting ofi, from Withinthe shoe, a portion of the said insole from a substantial distance ofits edge face to and including part of its edge-face.

EUCLID 1. :LA CHAPELLE.

